New York Fashion Week 2021 has finally come and gone, and it did not disappoint. Fashion has always been a facet of New York’s culture. “Project Runway” is filmed here, so it has to be, right? Tim Gunn would never lie to us.
From September 7-12, designers and studios flocked back to the city for New York Fashion Week 2021 to show off their Spring/Summer 2022 collections. Michael Kors, Christian Siriano, Coach, Brandon Maxwell and all of the other names you know from the tags of clothing you can’t afford were on the runway here in Manhattan.
In an exclusive with TMS, we spoke with Hong Kong-based designer Harrison Wong, who reflected that the designer who expressed the current fashion zeitgeist most through their collection was Marc Jacobs.
“His last Fall/Winter collection was not only one of my favorites, but I also think his designs capture the current fashion spirit of these times,” Wong reflects. “The style of the entire collection is very distinctive, with an oversize silhouette mixed with op-art graphics. It demonstrates a kind of American cool street fashion combined with European high fashion.”
And in terms of designers who took risks, Wong says: “In NYFW, we can see how Thom Browne consistently pushes the envelope in terms of creativity each season. I also surprisingly found that Tory Burch had a sharp standout collection of unexpected juxtapositions of color and sculptural jackets.”
It’s not a fashion show without names like these. Even more exciting, though, were the innovative looks from up-and-coming designers. Read on for our highlights on the names and collections to look out for on 5th Avenue.
One of the first collections of the week was Collina Strada’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection. And man does it scream spring. Every piece is an amalgamation of bright colors that works within the color story of the collection at large. The layering of pieces is quintessential contemporary fashion. With the half arc motif seen in many of the pieces, especially noticeable in cutouts, this collection, and the Strada label more generally, has proved itself to be both cohesive and visually appealing.
The Marrisa Wilson label showed off its Spring 2022 collection at NYFW this year, and these pieces featured “a look toward the future through the lens of the 1960s Space Age and the spirit of Motown” with “parallels to the Space Age amidst the backdrop of the Cold War and the Civil Rights Movement to today through technological advances post-COVID and the continued fight for social justice, Black Lives Matter and gender equality.”
Clearly, this collection was attempting to achieve a lot. And guess what? It really delivered. The Wilson label is one of women’s streetwear that is bold, geometric and screaming neons. It is also one of the only collections to feature some truly impressive hats.
Another streetwear collection, Dirty Pineapple’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection is “deeply rooted in city life.” So if you’re wondering what the cool teens are into these days, this collection answers that question. With bold black and white prints and deep greens and tie-dye oranges, the eye is immediately drawn to these pieces.
Accentuating an oversized, geometric silhouette, anyone would look good in these clothes. In this collection, Dirty Pineapple attempts to mesh its city roots with the roots of nature, and that vision emerges through dynamic, compelling styles.
Willy Chavarria’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection is a lens through which to view what can only be described as “First Communion Couture.” The pieces displayed experiment with proportion in a way that is as charming as it is structurally intriguing, with impressively large collars and wide sleeves. Notably, the jackets in this collection call back to the 80s and 90s – a fun addition!
threeASFOUR’s collection, KUNDALINI, consists of structured garments that utilize geometric cutouts and patterns to keep visual interest. The pieces defy gravy, folding into architecturally captivating garments. Drawing inspiration from the seven chakras, this avant-garde showing is as whimsical as it is tectonic.
A women’s evening wear collection, Kamilla Purshie’s Spring/Summer 2022 selection is elegant as well as showstopping. With flowers as the primary inspiration and theme for these pieces, the Purshie label still displays innovation and singularity. Visual effects are achieved in how the designs spotlight the gathering, folding and layering of fabric for simple yet cleverly constructed garments.
Sienna Li is a label that comes into its own through expert tailoring and silhouettes. Each piece is an amalgamation of layered details. With 3D elements accentuating the structure of most of the garments featured, these pieces almost appear like X-rays of themselves. Meshing distinct fabrics into cohesive compositions is a difficult task and one that is mastered by this label.
The Mr. Saturday collection on show this year is titled “As She Fixes Her Hair.” It takes inspiration from an unusual source: climate change. The label defines it as “elevated nightlife wear for a world on fire,” which is pretty high-concept if you ask us.
All of the garment materials come from upcycled and dead stock material, plus the proceeds of the made-to-wear line go toward the Climate Emergency Fund. The pieces themselves are, at a glance, unremarkable. But each one has its own detailing that makes it stand out from other nightwear. In particular, this collection features a curved line motif, which appears in the tailoring and creates necessary playfulness in otherwise structural garments.
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